Southern Mexico roadtrippin PT2

We arrived in Pelanque to visit the beautiful ruins, set in the middle of the jungle, crawling vines over the 1500 year old ruins and green grass surrounding the site. Then that night we drove on to Bonampak.

We found a great camp site for 30 pesos each and had a relaxing night, falling asleep to the sound of waterfall in the background.

The next day I went to the remote ruins of Yaxchitlan. you need to get a lancha there as they are so remote, set right on the riverside of Mexico and Guatemala. The ruins are similar to that of Pelanque, set deep in the jungle, and very green and lush. Spider monkeys came out to play at the tree tops which was a great sight. We also spotted a crocodile sunning himself on the river bank on the way there.

On the way back we had a quick stop over in Guatemala, got some Guatemalan quetzals and bought some snacks. There was no immigration or border patrol so Im not sure how they monitor crossings. But the same day we found out a war broke out at another place on the border, lucky it wasn`t where we were.

The next day we stopped in a tiny town to visit a family who own a bakery and they offered us cake, bread rolls, oranges and had their son take photos of us all. By now we`re quite used to people wanting to take photos of us, I guess its the blonde hair.. But they were a sweet family and when I showed them vegemite they thought it was hilarious. But the best was when I told them I gave them a postcard from Wagga Wagga- they didn`t even want to try to pronounce it!!

That night we slept in Chetumal, an uneventful night and unremarkable town.

The next day we jumped back in the kangoo and climbed up to Tulum, we spent the afternoon at th beach there then pitched out tent in a campsite on the beach for 80 pesos each.

We had a delicious seafood dinner in town then relaxed on the beach.

The next morning we had some more beach time, did some shopping then went to visit the ruins of Tulum but unfortunately then were closed already, so well have to return- What a shame!!

Then we made it to Cancun- finally! we'd all had enough of the car, as cool as it is, and were happy to have a few days break. Alvaro's parents and sister flew in that night and we greeted them at the airport, we knew immediately that it will great spending the next week with them- a great family!!

The next day we showed them the beautiful Caribeean beached, white sand and clear blue water. Palapa huts on the beach, and cervezas for lunch. Can't get much better. We had lunch at Hooters, an interesting experience. Average food, but everyone knows you don't go to Hooters for the food.

Then we had a big night, everyone had told us about the experience that is CocoBongo, and its true that you need to see it to believe it. A disco that costs $45 US to get in, open bar all night and impersonator shows all night, certainly worth it!!

They started with Frank Sinatra, moved onto Lady Gaga and Madonna and threw in Spiderman and Batman fight seen, I loved it. (Well the parts that i remember.... Lets not mention that...)

Southern Mexico roadtrippin PT1

One week down in a month long road trip through the south of Mexico... So far, so good!

I'm travelling with a group of friends, Ines, the eternally happy Parisian, Raphael, the Provencal French rugby man, Alvaro, the crazy Spaniard and Miguel, the balance between everyone- calm and studious.

We rented a kangoo, a ridiculous French van, piled our backpacks, tent and reserve in the back and set off from Mexico City.
The first encounter was the Guadalupeans, as we´ve affectionally named them. These Guadalupeans embark on a pilgrimage to the Basilica of Guadalupe in Mexico City around the 12 of December from all parts of Mexico. They travel in big trucks and each person takes a turn carrying the torch along the highway all the way to Mexico City and back. and there were thousands of groups of them!

Mexico is a country of extremes, from the rich, US-styled Monterrey we arrived in the poor colonial town of Oaxaca. We slept in a freezing campsite and vistied the beautiful colourful Zocalo. The Mayan ruins of Monte Alban were impressive, as was the fiesta offering all sorts of Oaxacan delicacies such as banana tamales, balls of Oaxaca cheese and tarts. Delicious.

Next stop was Mazunte, a chilled out beach village. We got there very late so that only place we found to pitch the tent was in a the driveway of a lovely but crazy family. With hundreds of roosters going all night long!! Safe to say we didn't get much sleep that night. The next day we found a slightly more legit campsite called La Isla for 40 pesos each, set only 10 metres from the beach. We spent the day in the waves and the afternoon in the bar.

We changed it up a bit the next day and camped at Zipolite, an even more hippy relaxed campsite set on the beach. We spent a relaxing afternoon at the beach and the night in the bar. What a tough life!

We drove the next afternoon until dark and camped in the carpark of a roadside hotel for 100pesos in total. No the most comfortable night, but we were used to it.

We drove the next morning until San Cristobal de las Casas, and arrived in the freezing cold. After months in the steaming heat of Mexico we were in for a bit of a shock when night fell and the temperature dropped to freezing.

San Cristobal is a picturesque village, large but not overwhelming. It's surrounded by many tiny indigenous villages, thus you can buy local indigenous crafts and clothing everywhere and the local market is one of the most interesting in Mexico. The indigenous women and children still wear traditional clothing, very bright and colourful that begs to be photographed but they are very camera shy so its not welcomed. Ines tried to photograph one woman in the market and got a banana peel thrown her way.

We visited a Zapatista village (who demand democracy for all!) where we had to gain permission to enter, the village of Chamula with an odd church with pine needles on the floor and offerings of soda, eggs and chickens. Very eerie but incredible. We were swarmed by local children asking for money, food anything really, and Raph bought some fireworks which they seemed very pleased with. It was gorgeous!

After San Cristobal we returned to the heat of Pelanque.

Bucket List

1. Bungee jump
2. Sky dive
3. Become tri-lingual
4. Volunteer teaching English
5. Visit all 6 continents
6. Get my boat licence
7. Get my motorbike licence
8. Skinny-dip
9. Hitchhike
10. Watch the sunset and sunrise from a beautiful beach
11. Hang-glide
12. Work as a correspondent
13. Make friends all around the world
14. Write a book
15. Take the Ghan
16. Sell my photographs
17. Design my own home
18. Get married
19. Go on a cruise
20. Master surfing
21. Work as a tour guide
22. Graduate University
23. Get 100% on a test
24. Swim with dolphins
25. Get my scuba dive licence
26. Visit Uluru
27. Work on a boat
28. Get a story on the front page of a newspaper
29. Run a marathon
30. Visit a volcano
31. Live in Asia
32. Speak Japanese in Japan
33. Go in a helicopter
34. Go on safari in Africa
35. Win a big prize
36. Get a free first-class upgrade
37. XXX
38. Learn to snowboard
39. Start a charity
40. Play in a band
41. Go to the World Cup
42. Camp in Alaska
43. Run with the bulls
44. Go to La Tomatina
45. Go to Oktoberfest
46. Go to live wrestling
47. Walk the Great Wall of China
48. Go to mud springs
49. Date someone famous
50. Drive all around Australia
51. Visit somewhere not on any map
52. Live with elephants
53. Climb the Sydney Harbour Bridge
54. Attend Christmas Eve mass
55. Find a religion
56. Catch my own dinner
57. Open a B&B
58. Go to a huge English music fest
59. See Antarctica
60. Live in France
61. Live in a third-world country
62. Visit a war zone

Things I never want to do

1. Touch a snake
2. Get a divorce
3. Go to jail
4. Insult someones culture
5. Stop travelling

Safety Situation in MTY

Before arriving in Mexico I was aware of drug cartels and violence, but I just assumed it would be somwhere else, it would not affect me.

Last semester two Tec students were shot in crossfire out the front of the University.

So by the time I arrived, the situation was worse than I had expected.

My third day in Monterrey I went to a information session hosted by the University about 'safety issues in Monterrey'. Some recommendations included not walking in the streets at night, not carrying your laptop with you, only taking secure taxis, always letting someone know where you are and when you will be coming home. Jokingly someone asked where you can buy bullet-proof vests. The speaker jokingly replied 'the shop just across the road'.

A month later, there was a shooting a few blocks from the campus. The recommendations became don't walk alone ever, don't go out on weekends, and don't give bribes to police officers. People seriously asked about the bullet-proof vests.
One class was cancelled and instead our teacher gave a lecture on "what to do if you get caught in a shooting". In case you're wondering the best is to lie down behind a car or building. DO NOT RUN!

Soon, we were getting regular updates from the head of the international office. They usually went something like 'over the weekend Tec students were involved in an incident involving drug cartles or 'last night, some of our students reported being arrested by police for no reasn and forced to pay X pesos to be released'.
At the same time, rumours were rife. "Oh did you hear John and Sandra were held up last night by some narcos ad they had to give them all their money".
"Hey did you know the police took Tim last night for just standing out the front of his house."
"What about the house where the French guys live, apparently they got robbed when they were all home. They took everything".

Soon after, students started leaving. Embassies, home universities and parents became frantic about how it would reflect upon them if something happened to their citizen, student or child. And Tec obliged, even more worried about their reputation if something should happen to one of their exchange students, letting students return home, change campus or just go travelling.

The Australian government travel site increased it's travel warning to high degree of caution and added a whole paragraph about Monterrey.

There has been a wave of drug-related violence in 2010 in the city of Monterrey (Nuevo Leon). Shootouts at busy intersections and restaurants, as well as road blockades, have taken place without warning. Gunfire has been heard around the city at irregular intervals which has been attributed to territorial disputes between rival drug cartels. Local government officials located in smaller towns outside of Monterrey, who have attempted to stop corruption, have been fatally targeted by the drug cartels.

And then came the CNN report. http://edition.cnn.com/video/#/video/world/2010/11/18/gutierrez.mexico.univ.exodus.cnn Apparently Monterrey is a 'battleground for warring cartels'.

The situation is unpleasant, and for sure it is getting worse. Five years ago Monterrey was called the safest city in Mexico. By now it's near the worst.
It's proximity to the border, its wealth and it's size all contribute to the drug problem. At the moment no one is sure how to control the situation. The narcos control most of the mayors offices as well as the police force.
So while I get to leave next week and look back on the semester as a unique experience, my Mexican friends, other exchange students and Monterrey residents have to live with this danger daily.

10 reasons to go on exchange

As my four month exchange in Mexico is rapidly coming to an end, I've been
thinking about how great the experience has been. So for anyone who's
considering of doing an exchange program here are 10 reasons to convince you to
do so!

10. Study in a new environment, learn new ways to manage your studies and a different education system. You will look at things from a new perspective.

9. It will look great on your resume. To be able to say you spend part of your degree studying in another country will show that you are adventurous, open-minded and confident. All qualities an employer would love to have in an employee.

8. Travel. While in your host country, you will have plenty of opportunities to travel to other cities and even other neighbouring countries.


7. Become more independent. You will most likely have to find yourself a place to live, cook your own food, do your own cleaning and washing as well as plan your own holidays, manage your budget and your time. So if you were living with your parents before this gives you a change to do things by yourself for once! And it's fun!

6. Improve your self-esteem. A semester on exchange will surely make you more confident, easy-going and friendy. Nearly everyday you meet new people and challenge yourself to try new things so by the end of the exchange you won't recognise yourself!

5. The food! One of my favourite things about travelling is the food, and when you stay in a country for an extended period of time you will really get to try all the different foods. I took Mexican cooking classes and learnt how to make delicious things such as mole, enchiladas, chile poblano, sopa tortilla, and sooo much more. I can't wait to go home and test the recipes out on my family and friends.

4. Experience a different culture. Living in a country such as Mexico with such a rich culture and history has been a very enriching experience. I took two courses on Mexican history and culture so it was great to understand the places we visited and the museums we saw. Also this semester Mexico was celebrating 200 years since Independence and 100 years since the Revolution, two very proud moments in Mexican history.

3. The parties. Almost everyday there is a party you are invited to. Whether it be at a club, house, bar or beach, you can never ever be bored on exchange!

2. Learn a language. If you choose to embark on an exchange in a country that doesn't speak your language it gives you the perfect opporunity to learn a new language. When I arrived in Mexico, I could barely introduce myself, but now I feel confident to have a conversation completely in Spanish. It's a great feeling when you realise how much you've improved in a few short months. And of course I feel much more confident travelling through Latin America now.

1. The people. I've met some amazing people in the past four months, and I can now say I've got best friends in all corners of the world- France, Spain, Germany, Singapore, Finland, USA, Canada, Mexico, Czech Republic,

Mexico City Must-See's

1. Zocalo -the main square (right)



2. Temple Mayor (behind the Cathedral) Thought to be the exact place where the Aztecs saw their famed symbolic eagle atop a cactus eating a snake- Mexico's national symbol today.



3. Xochimilco - beautiful canals where you can ride a wooden canoe, buy beers, tacos, corn, mariachi bands, anything, while you're floating along peacefully.



4. Torre Latinoamerica- an incredible view from the top of the entire city



5. Palacio de bellas artes- the murals are very interesting, and the building beautiful.


6. Museo de Anthropologia- incredible!
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   


7. Coyoacan- visit Frida Kahlos blue house (above) and Trotskys house where he was killed, with an ice pick!



8. Plaza de las tres culturas- You can see the ancient (pyramids of Tlatelolco), colonial (Templo de Santiago) and current (the Foreign Relations government building) cultures in one spot. It is also the site of the 1968 Student protests when the army, on government orders, opened fire on hundreds of students.



9. The restaurant on the 6th floor of an artisan gallery, next to McDonalds in Zocala. It has an amazing view of Zocalo, and well-priced.



10. Tortas, anywhere, anytime = AMAZING!



11. La Condesa, for fun bars, and hip restaurants



12. Plaza Garibaldi- if you love Mariachi



13. Lucha Libre- at Arena Mexico every Sunday.

Mexico City- a city of contradictions

Mexico City (or D.F. for locals) is a monster of a city. With over 22 million residents, some ridiculously rich while the majority live in poverty in cramped favelas on the mountain side, it really is a city of contradictions.

The main square, Zocalo is overwhelming. Lined by the enormous National Palace, the Federal government and the grand Cathedral it's one of the biggest squares in the world. The pavers in the square as well as the bricks of many of the buildings were taken from ancient Aztec ruins by the Spanish to build their modern city.

Behind the cathedral, ruins have been found of the ancient Temple Mayor and you can see an interesting contrast between the past and now.

Overall the city is full of relics of the past that contrast the present. The Museum of Anthroplogy is housed in a huge, modern building and displays relics from past cultures throughout the world.

The ancient ruins of Tenochitlan, one hour from the city, are surrounded by a golf course and villages.

On the highway to get there you pass endless favelas where the poorest people survive on the basics, but they all have Cable TV.

Every night there was a light and sound show in Zocalo put on by the government to celebrate one hundred years since the Mexican Revolution, to celebrate the change, progress and pride in Mexico over the last 100 years. However, in reality Mexico is still struggling to catch up to modernity, democracy and equality.

There are street vendors selling tacos for 1 or 2 pesos outside restaurants selling tacos for 30 or 40 pesos.

There are police lining most corners of the historic centre yet there were still men fighting in the street, people selling drugs, cars running red lights and people drinking in the street.

There are the beautiful neighbourhods like Coyoacan and Polanco where the drinks are pricey and the clientele well dressed. But you need to take the dirty, smelly metro, with people selling everything from chewing gum to cooking books for about 5 pesos, to get there.

The Castillo de Chapultepec was once a castle for an Austrian emperor, then a military school, followed by Presidential palace until it was bequeathed as a national museum. So now the city's residents flock there to get a taste of wealth and culture.

Then, like I did, for a taste of REAL Mexican culture they head to the lucha libre. An example of possibly the lowest cultural tradition that exists in Mexico, this 'free fighting' is a true cult. Teams of three luchadors, each with a mask or long hair fight (albiet fake) for three rounds. The athletic abilities are impressive, the fighting not so much. Families take their children who are dressed as their favourite luchador, couples go on dates there, and true fanatics even have their own section of the stadium. Everyone has a hero and an enemy, and they go wild over both. I even heard kids as young as 5 or 6 yelling 'puto, puto, puto' -roughly translated as asshole, asshole, asshole!

Even the climate is opposing, stinking hot days, then chilly nights.

I spend only four days there, and I got a great impression of the city, but I think to really appreciate the city and its inner workings you need a lot longer.

Futbol en Mexico

Soccer in Mexico.

It is a passion, a religion, an obsession.

I come from Melbourne, so I am used to people obsessing over sport, whether it be AFL, horse racing, soccer or tennis.

But I was lucky to go to a national league soccer game on Saturday night. It was a tough game, UANL Tigres vs Morelia.

Tigres are known as the 'popular' team, the team for the lower classes, the masses. The chants from the die-hard supporters call "alle Negros", 'let's go blacks', referring to the fact that the lower classes generally have darker skin.

The stadium was at it's 40,000 capacity, with a small group of about 100 Morelians squeezing into the highest, worst corner of the stadium.

The standard is very high, and at half time it was 0-0. However, the second half saw Morelia squeeze a goal in. The stadium was almost silent.

In extra time, Tigres goalie ran the length of the field to participate in a corner, and it looked like he scored. The crowd went wild, only to realise a few minutes later that it was disallowed. No one knew why..

But the whistle blew quickly after and the crowd was very vocal in expressing their disapproval!

But it was a great atmosphere, to see Mexicans united, so proud of their team.

And of course they love the Mexican wave!

Did you know the Mexican wave was first invented in Monterrey in the 1950s during a game between Monterrey Rayados and Tigres.

Cuatro Cienegas

A deserted campsite in the middle of a white, sandy desert, surrounding by shaggy, rocky mountains.
This is Cuatro Cienegas. The names means four swamps, but I think it should be renamed desert heaven.

Five friends, an Australian, a Mexican, a Spaniard, a Frenchman and a Finnish spent the weekend here camping.

We camped in a tiny oasis campsite called Los Mesquites, about 4 hours drive north-west of Monterrey and ten minutes outside of Cuatro Cienegas the town. There is a crystal clear river that flows through the campsite that has been there for over 4 million years. And who knows how long the fish and turtles that swim around your feet have been there.

Apparently there are hundreds of small lakes or lagoons in the middle of the desert but at the time we went they were contaminated from all the recent rain, so they were closed for swimmers. But that didn´t matter, the beautiful spot we found was perfect.

We set up a BBQ ina tiny island hut and cooked a delicious meal of minced beef, pork, chorizo, vegetables and tortillas. The site was moonlit and the background music was the flowing water and occasional crickets.

We enjoyed a bottle of wine or two and for dessert we toasted marshmallows in the fire. The wind made it quite cold, but perfect weather to sit by an open fire and get to talk about our crazy cultural differences.

We swam in the river in almost darkness, the fish ocassionally brushing past us, before hitting the sack in our spacious tent.

In the morning we took a wake-up dip in the cool water. Then we drove to another beautiful site, Las Dunas. Incredible white sand dunes, another protected area. We climbed the endless dunes and found a giant natural sandcastle to call our own. The area is surrounded by dark mountain ranges, making the contrast incredible.

It really is a small peace of beauty in a most unlikely area.

Mexican stereotypes come true

You know when you plan a trip to a new country, you kind of hope you will see all those classic stereotypes, even if you know you'll be lucky to see one.
Well so far, my trip in Mexico had been highly unsuccessful at stereotype-spotting.
That was until last weekend...
I went with a group of friends to Real de Catorce, a tiny town set in the mountains in the state of San Luis Potosi.
It has a population of about 3000, but during this time there were many pilgrims who come for a few weeks every year to pray to San Franciso de Asis at the beautiful old church.
It's set high up in the mountains, so after driving along the worlds longest cobbled road you stand ascending the mountain and experiencing some magical views over the desert.
Once you get to the top, you feel like you are in some crazy land of stereotypes.
1. Men actually wesaring bigotes and sombreros
2. the deserted desert with cactuses everywhere
3. And tumbleweed rolling along the road
4. Men with golden teeth, or even better no teeth.
5. Hallucenogenic cactus
6. Indigenous women in colourful dresses
7. Tacos of every colour, shape and variety for about 50c each
8. People drinking cans of beer in the street- at 9am
9. Donkeys everywhere, for riding, transporting goods, as pets, crossing the road, standing in a field, as enemies, whatever you want.
10. Riding on the roof of a battered up old jeep
11. Horse and cart taking you through the tunnel.

The list could really go on and on.. but suffice to say that if you want a hit of real old-school Mexican culture, you should visit Real de 14.

Escalating danger

Yesterday there was a shooting in Monterrey, about 5 minutes from my University and home. No one was injured but it lasted about 15 minutes, in a suburban neighbourhood. (And right behind the McDonalds I frequent on hungover Sundays!)

It's strange, a few years ago Monterrey was known as the safest city in Mexico. When I first arrived here I heard of shootings in towns nearby Monterrey, then in suburbs on the outskirts of the city, then in the ugly inner suburbs, and now in a so-called safe area, just minutes from where I live. Of course, I am now wondering how close will it actually get to me?

And last Sunday there were reports of a grenade attack in a public plaza. This is the first time that civilians have been targeted by drug cartels. This is not a good sign.

I'm not sure what to do next. My teacher warned everyone to stay inside last night, taught us techniques incase we do get caught in the middle of a shootout, and advised everyone that this weekend could get ugly. I'm not used to hearing these sentences, "if you find yourself in a shooting", "Don't go outside unless necessary", "never walk alone" but since I've been in Monterrey they've become almost as common as Que onda wey!

The University has called emergency safety meetings today and tomorrow and the international news has caught on, but all I'm worried about is my parents finding out and sending me home.
Because in the end, as dangerous as it may be, I'm not ready to leave. I still love Mexico and want to discover more.

I just wish it was a little more convenient to do so.

Read the articleshere:
http://www.google.com/hostednews/ap/article/ALeqM5gMi5B2USfJStXxfqgWWr2xjRYpOgD9IKFVIG1?docId=D9IKFVIG1
http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/programmes/world_news_america/8955232.stm

Important Lessons Learnt So Far

Yesterday was not my day!
As my Mum always says 'bad luck runs in three' and yesterday I copped all three in one day.

1. I'd arranged to meet friends at 7am Friday for a quick foray to the Texan town of McAllen, most famous for it's outlet shopping. At 10.30 am I woke up groggy and dazed from the previous nights fun (Black eyed Peas were in town and the concert and after-party were awesome!) until I suddenly came to my senses and realised I'd missed the rendez-vous. SHIT! My phone battery had died so the alarm never went off. I charged my phone and saw the multiple messages from my friends- 'Donde estas puta!!??' were some of the nicer ones. So I decided I could just get a bus to McAllen and meet them there so I don't miss out on this bargain shopping!

2. I got the bus easily enough and told my friends I'll meet them in McAllen in the afternoon. We cross the Rio Grande and pull up at the very busy immigration station. I wait in line thinking 'yes I have my visa, good work, this should be easy...' Then I look at the person next to holding her passport in her hand. SHIT! I forgot my passport!!! Next thought, 'Ok so maybe I don't need it, maybe I just need my visa.. Wishful thinking!'.
So the immigration officers have only one thing to say to me, 'Go back to Mexico. You can't come in'. I feel like a wet bag or a drug dealer or something. So I trot miserably back to Mexico leaving my grand dreams of starting a new life behind (ok, so maybe just my dreams of finding some bargains but it felt very dramatic!).
Worse still, I was left stranded in the town of Reynosa. I asked on of the taxi drivers, (Es peligroso aqui?' and he replied 'Mas o menos". Is it dangerous here? - More or less! So I practically ran to the bus station and boarded the next bus to Monterrey.

3. So my miserable self and I get back to Monterrey and decide to go to a friends party with the idea that a few beers will make everything good again. And after a few beers, they do. Until I decide to dance my way across the room, slipped on some water and landed smack bang on my coccyx bone. That was at 11.45pm. So for the final 15 minutes of Friday I sat still nursing my back and counting down the second til my SHIT! day was over!!

Lessons learnt:
1. Everything bad happens in threes.
2. You need your passport if you plan on entering a new country.
3. If it's not your day, it's not your day. Accept it.
4. Reynosa is dangerous.
5. SHIT happens!

6. Mum is always right!

Colonial life in Zacatecas

In Mexico, the old colonial towns are some of the most beautiful you will see. I recently paid a visit to Zacatecas, a town set in a soft shade of pink.


The town is proud of it's mining history thus the Mina el Eden is a must see for visitors. Opened in 1586, it only closed down a couple of decades ago, and now serves a tourist destination and museum, and a nightclub!


The rock and gem display is exquisite, but the mine not so much. While our tour guide was knowledgeable, he sounded like he repeated the same tour 5 times a day, 365 days a year, and the same lame jokes. It does however give you an insight into mining life centuries ago when miners sons became slaves to the mine owner until they could repay their debts.




On the way out you should visit the plato store if you're in the market for some beautiful and cheap local silver.


Wander through the Unesco heritage listed town and now will feel as if you are wearing rose coloured glasses. Nearly every building is built from pink limestone of different shades and thus casts a soft and romatic mood over the entire town.



Cerro de la Bufa sits on the top of a hill looking obscure and ugly, however Zacatecans love their strange 'wineskin' looking rock formation. From this hill you can visit the musem of the taking of Zacatecas and hitch a ride on the cable car to the other side of the city. When I visited local women and children had camped on the roadside selling homemade jewellery from colourful beads.



I was also lucky enough to be visiting during La Morisma, a weekend long war re-enactment of the Spanish battle between the Christians and the Moors. The thousands of people who get involved REALLY get involved. Powder guns shoot non stop as men, and children, run around in complete costumes and all. It really was a sight to behold.
I had one question- why, in this country that tries to forget everything related to the Spanish conquest, so much so they believe their history starts in 1810, would they celebrate a Spanish event? The only answer I got was because there are still so many Spanish living here... Hmm?

A favorite local haunt is Cantina 15 letras, a cute little dive bar with cheap beers and even cheaper decor. Dance along to the cliche old men on the acordian singing terrible Spanish love songs ain the corner and you've got yourself a Mexican night out!

But my highlight of the trip was following the andanzas (local version of mariachi) through the cobbled streets, dancing, singing and drinking awful mezcal in tiny ceramic pots tied around our necks! The more you tip, the longer the night goes!

Monterrey

This fast paced American style Mexican metropolis is where I am calling home for the next 5 months.
I arrived August 1 to start studying at the acclaimed Tec de Monterrey.


http://www.itesm.edu/wps/portal?WCM_GLOBAL_CONTEXT=




First impressions- OK, so am I in MEXICO? It really doesn't have that stereotypical feel of the Colonial towns in the south of Mexico but you can still find many Mexican icons.



1. Taco stands littering every corner.




2. Crazy drivers, and even crazier taxi drivers.




3. Narcos- http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-latin-america-10977501



4. Cerveza, mojitos and even chilli cerveza



5. Football pride



6. A strongly Catholic society



But what sets it apart from the majority of the rest of Mexico is money. People here are generally wealthy, and the neighbouring town of San Pedro boasts the most expensive street in all of Latin America! Their malls are impressive, the cars are monstorous and their clothing smothered in brands.



Well thats at my University anyway. It is the most expensive University in all of Mexico!



But what is there to do here- Well downtown you can visit Macroplaza, the biggest plaza in the world. You can stroll the main drag Morelos, for some pretty tacky clothing and shops. Or you can visit te Barrio Antigua where you can see many cute cafes and bars and gift shops. But be careful here! Dont walk alone.



Then take yourself to the beautful and peaceful Paseo Santa Lucia which stretches all the way to Parque Fundidora- and urban park with anything you can think of.



Then for dinner head to Monterrey's most famed restaurant El Rey de Cabrita (King of Baby Goat) for the most typical dish here, baby goat.



To finish up the night there are plenty of bars in Barrio Antigua, but my favourite La Rambla is is the suburb of Valle Primavera. The litros for 65 pesos are awesome and regular karaoke nights are always fun!!

Overall, Monterrey is a safe city, but you must take precautions. Don't walk alone at night. Don't carry too much cash or electronics. And stay to the main areas, don't go to the suburbs.

I will update you when I discover more of Monterrey's hidden gems!

Viva Mexico!

Paris roller

If you want to get a unique view of Paris streets and neighbourhoods I have found the best way-on rollerblades.

The group 'rollers & coquillages' have created a huge following for their Sunday afternoon randonees through Paris. Yesterday I joined in.

You can rent your blades for under 10euro from Nomades in Place de Bastille for a half day or full day. And don't worry- they have plenty for hire!

The tour starts at 2.30 from outside of the shop and we set off in a pack of about 2000 crazy rollerbladers and a couple on skates !! And it's totally free.

We headed along the Seine on the right bank, past all the famous sites- the Louvre, Pont Alexandre III, Tuileries, The Eiffel Tower and crossed to head up towards Tour Montparnasse and then back through St Germain, St Michel and back to Bastille.

Sounds easy-?

Well it's not. For me, as a new found beginner, as in I haven't had a pair of rollerblades on my feet for over 8 years, the hardest thing was stopping! Every 10 minutes or so we would all stop in a group to get the stragglers back to the speedys at the front. And sometimes that stop was at the bottom of the hill. Lucky I could just hold onto my friend while he stopped and I dragged along. And the cobbled streets on old Paris are not so easy to roll across.

Altogether the trip was about 20km, almost 3 hours, and very hard work.

But the thing that really impressed me allowing a group of people on rollerblades to take over the city on a Sunday. Roads were shut down, traffic stopped and major intersections at a stand still just so we could have a leisurely blade through the city. What other city would allow such a thing? Of course there were a lot of beeping horns as we rolled past, but overall onlookers were impressed.

'Allez-y les rollers'! They would call as we went by.

And I should mention for bragging rights- I didn't fall over once. (But if I had, there's a convoy of red cross ambulances following the group as well as plenty of staff on hand with bandages, water and water pistols to cool the crowd.)

Every week they change the route, so check out this site for all the details. Have fun! http://www.rollers-coquillages.org/

Parisian Men

It's coming back to me. Parisian men: they're a breed of their own.

They must think to themselves 'I'm from Paris therefore I am irrestible to women. And therefore I am so confident about this I will try to pick them up within 5 minutes of meeting a girl.'

And then theres the men who sleaze bag onto you in the street, "ooh madamoiselle, vous etes tres belle', on the metro, in the park. Only in Paris.

C'est la vie

Riding on the back of a motorbike through the cobbled side streets of Paris then lurching into busy boulevards, swiping through Renaults and Peugeots. Glancing up to see the sparkles of the Eiffel Tower reflected in apartment windows. Stopping at traffic lights to catch snippets of converstaion from other riders.

All while gripping onto a sexy Italian, French Spanish and English speaking man of my dreams.

To him, I have given my trust and heart..

A l'amour.

Only in Asia

The Asian Massage

The exotic food, the balmy weather, the bargain hunting and of course, the massages. The usual highlights of a trip to South-East Asia. On my varied trips over the years I have experienced many a traditional massage. Before the massage I am exctied about the thought of one whole hour of relaxing indulgence. On leaving, I never feel quite the same.

My most recent expereience occured in the quaint historical town of Malacca in Malaysia. After a long semester at University and long hours working in a bar, my shoulders and back were as tight as American airport security. For weeks I put off paying $70 for a basic massage back home, knowing I'd be able to enjoy five for that price in Asia. I needed a relaxed body, ready for my round the world adventure.

I was travelling with my Dad and we found a cute massage shop just off the busy Jonker Street markets. Fott refexology seems to be the popular thing in Malacca so I chose a 40 minute foot reflexology followed by 20 minutes on the back and shoulders. As I sat in the cahir my male masseuse pointed to my Dad and asked "husband?", to which I casually replied "no, father". The other customers in the massage room cracked up while the masseuse quickly translated to his friends and they all muttered "sorry, sorry, sorry".

(By now I'm used to this siuation having encountered the same thing on probably ten occassions. As my Dad puts it, "Only in Asia")

So the massage begins, as do the questions.

"Miss, how old you?"

"I'm 22. How old are you?"

"I'm three-eight. Bit old (giggles)."

"Miss where you from?"

"Australia"

"Ooh Oostraria. Kangaroo. (giggles)"

"Yes"

"Miss, what you here?"

"For a holiday."

"You like Malacca?"

"Yes, it's very nice."

"Yes, it's good."

This sort of exchange I've found to be very common in Asia. They are not shy when asking personal quesitons. Yet, it never comes off as rude. Only friendly and inquisitive.

Two days later, I was ready for another massage. This time the whole body. I was taken up the stairs of the quiet massage parlour by #12, ( 'We don't use names, only number. This number 12 girl.") a big burly Chinese girl with an English repertoire of about 10 words. Her favourite was "oooh pain", everytime I'd wince in anguish as she dug further into the back. I managed to discover we're both 22, she has a boyfriend who lives in Kuala Lumpur, and she wants to set me up with her older brother, who's in China! She was not shy when I lay there braless (surprising in a conservative Muslim country), and she was not shy digging deep into my tight knots. Apparently my sore back and neck was stemming from "sleep - no good", or in other words, my poor sleeping pattern.

RM 50 later (about AUD $20) I walked out feeling like I'd been run over by a steam roller, but amazingly today, two days later my back feels great.

But my favourite dinner party story comes from Thailand. I was in Koh Phang-an with my girlfriends for the insane Full Moon Party. The day after the party, we took our mopeds and our hangovers down to the massage shop for a bit of indulgent recovery. My friend and I chose the full body oil massage for 250 Baht (about $11) and lay down on our tummies in nothing but our swimmer bottoms. The petite Thai girls started on our backs, shoulders, head, legs and arms and then motioned for us to roll onto our backs. My friend, either more prudish or smart than I, whichever way you look at it, covered her boobs with her hands as her masseuse worked on her cheset and stomach. I, in my poorly state, just let it all hang out. Not long and I discovered that full body means Full Body here. I had my breasts gently massages, tweaked and stroked. And the whole time I'm thinking my friend lying next to me was experiencing the same personal touch.

Only after we left and I turn to her and ask, "So how did you like that?" did I find out that she has covered herself and missed out on the infamous boob massage. Only in Asia.

Sadly, as I sit in a bistro in Paris and reflect on my trip to Asia, I realise it will be a long while before I have another Asian massage story to tell.

First Impressions

Ahh Paris.
The sounds: roaring mopeds, coffee machines steaming, tout-a-l'heure, and bonjour.
The smells: wafting pastries from each corner boulangerie, the cats piss metro, J'adore Dior floating in the breeze and coffee everywhere.
The sights: romantic apartment facades, elegant women, motorbikes lined along boulevards, cutesy dogs trotting behind their owners, and bright healthy sun lighting up this ville d'amour.