Colombia and Mexico lumped in the same dangerous basket.

I feel like I have some sort of magnet towards drug-ridden developing countries in Latin America. Ok, well maybe only two, but two that have been severely affected by the drug wars and the ensuing violence, corruption and bad image in the media.


Before I left for Mexico I listened to hundreds of warnings about how dangerous the country was, how many people take/sell/abuse drugs and how crazy I was for wanting to go to such a dangerous country. Of course these reliable sources had never been to Mexico, most likely never ever set foot in Latin America.  
Those few that had been to Mexico raved about the vibrant culture, amazing food and amazing parties. These were the people I listened to.


Then, while I was still in Mexico, I told my family and friends back home I was going to live in Colombia, no less Medellin, no less work as a journalist, for two months. Again, the warnings came thick and fast, only now they were slightly easier to ignore by dumping them straight in my virtual trash can. 


Now I'm not blaming my informants for what they were saying, they were simply regurgitating the most violent and shocking AP stories that filter into Australian news broadcasts. I'm not even blaming those Australian news broadcasts, they know that blood sells.


But something needs to be done. I'm writing for an English-language news site www.colombiareports.com about Colombia. The editor said that every evening he looks over the days stories and asks himself, "Is this the Colombia I know? Is this the real Colombia?
If the answer is yes, we've done our job. Of course there are almost daily murders, corruption cases against everyone from the High Court Judge to the President but there are also concerts, sporting events, great travel destinations, government initiatives, natural disasters, development and growth. 


I grew to love Mexico, to understand it's darker side but to to desensitize myself from it and to semi-understand it. Now I have half the time to do the same in Colombia.


On a side note, I found two great articles recently. The first talks about the idea that Colombia's battle against drug cartels should not be copied in Mexico.
http://www.alternet.org/news/150274/colombia_is_no_model_for_mexico's_drug_war

The second is a great piece by an Australian guy in Colombia that sums up my feelings on desensitisation perfectly.
http://newmatilda.com/2011/03/10/everyday-violence

I can't wait to return to Australia and set the record straight about two of the most misrepresented, dangerous countries in the world.

10 reasons to go on exchange

As my four month exchange in Mexico is rapidly coming to an end, I've been
thinking about how great the experience has been. So for anyone who's
considering of doing an exchange program here are 10 reasons to convince you to
do so!

10. Study in a new environment, learn new ways to manage your studies and a different education system. You will look at things from a new perspective.

9. It will look great on your resume. To be able to say you spend part of your degree studying in another country will show that you are adventurous, open-minded and confident. All qualities an employer would love to have in an employee.

8. Travel. While in your host country, you will have plenty of opportunities to travel to other cities and even other neighbouring countries.


7. Become more independent. You will most likely have to find yourself a place to live, cook your own food, do your own cleaning and washing as well as plan your own holidays, manage your budget and your time. So if you were living with your parents before this gives you a change to do things by yourself for once! And it's fun!

6. Improve your self-esteem. A semester on exchange will surely make you more confident, easy-going and friendy. Nearly everyday you meet new people and challenge yourself to try new things so by the end of the exchange you won't recognise yourself!

5. The food! One of my favourite things about travelling is the food, and when you stay in a country for an extended period of time you will really get to try all the different foods. I took Mexican cooking classes and learnt how to make delicious things such as mole, enchiladas, chile poblano, sopa tortilla, and sooo much more. I can't wait to go home and test the recipes out on my family and friends.

4. Experience a different culture. Living in a country such as Mexico with such a rich culture and history has been a very enriching experience. I took two courses on Mexican history and culture so it was great to understand the places we visited and the museums we saw. Also this semester Mexico was celebrating 200 years since Independence and 100 years since the Revolution, two very proud moments in Mexican history.

3. The parties. Almost everyday there is a party you are invited to. Whether it be at a club, house, bar or beach, you can never ever be bored on exchange!

2. Learn a language. If you choose to embark on an exchange in a country that doesn't speak your language it gives you the perfect opporunity to learn a new language. When I arrived in Mexico, I could barely introduce myself, but now I feel confident to have a conversation completely in Spanish. It's a great feeling when you realise how much you've improved in a few short months. And of course I feel much more confident travelling through Latin America now.

1. The people. I've met some amazing people in the past four months, and I can now say I've got best friends in all corners of the world- France, Spain, Germany, Singapore, Finland, USA, Canada, Mexico, Czech Republic,

Cuatro Cienegas

A deserted campsite in the middle of a white, sandy desert, surrounding by shaggy, rocky mountains.
This is Cuatro Cienegas. The names means four swamps, but I think it should be renamed desert heaven.

Five friends, an Australian, a Mexican, a Spaniard, a Frenchman and a Finnish spent the weekend here camping.

We camped in a tiny oasis campsite called Los Mesquites, about 4 hours drive north-west of Monterrey and ten minutes outside of Cuatro Cienegas the town. There is a crystal clear river that flows through the campsite that has been there for over 4 million years. And who knows how long the fish and turtles that swim around your feet have been there.

Apparently there are hundreds of small lakes or lagoons in the middle of the desert but at the time we went they were contaminated from all the recent rain, so they were closed for swimmers. But that didn´t matter, the beautiful spot we found was perfect.

We set up a BBQ ina tiny island hut and cooked a delicious meal of minced beef, pork, chorizo, vegetables and tortillas. The site was moonlit and the background music was the flowing water and occasional crickets.

We enjoyed a bottle of wine or two and for dessert we toasted marshmallows in the fire. The wind made it quite cold, but perfect weather to sit by an open fire and get to talk about our crazy cultural differences.

We swam in the river in almost darkness, the fish ocassionally brushing past us, before hitting the sack in our spacious tent.

In the morning we took a wake-up dip in the cool water. Then we drove to another beautiful site, Las Dunas. Incredible white sand dunes, another protected area. We climbed the endless dunes and found a giant natural sandcastle to call our own. The area is surrounded by dark mountain ranges, making the contrast incredible.

It really is a small peace of beauty in a most unlikely area.

Mexican stereotypes come true

You know when you plan a trip to a new country, you kind of hope you will see all those classic stereotypes, even if you know you'll be lucky to see one.
Well so far, my trip in Mexico had been highly unsuccessful at stereotype-spotting.
That was until last weekend...
I went with a group of friends to Real de Catorce, a tiny town set in the mountains in the state of San Luis Potosi.
It has a population of about 3000, but during this time there were many pilgrims who come for a few weeks every year to pray to San Franciso de Asis at the beautiful old church.
It's set high up in the mountains, so after driving along the worlds longest cobbled road you stand ascending the mountain and experiencing some magical views over the desert.
Once you get to the top, you feel like you are in some crazy land of stereotypes.
1. Men actually wesaring bigotes and sombreros
2. the deserted desert with cactuses everywhere
3. And tumbleweed rolling along the road
4. Men with golden teeth, or even better no teeth.
5. Hallucenogenic cactus
6. Indigenous women in colourful dresses
7. Tacos of every colour, shape and variety for about 50c each
8. People drinking cans of beer in the street- at 9am
9. Donkeys everywhere, for riding, transporting goods, as pets, crossing the road, standing in a field, as enemies, whatever you want.
10. Riding on the roof of a battered up old jeep
11. Horse and cart taking you through the tunnel.

The list could really go on and on.. but suffice to say that if you want a hit of real old-school Mexican culture, you should visit Real de 14.

Escalating danger

Yesterday there was a shooting in Monterrey, about 5 minutes from my University and home. No one was injured but it lasted about 15 minutes, in a suburban neighbourhood. (And right behind the McDonalds I frequent on hungover Sundays!)

It's strange, a few years ago Monterrey was known as the safest city in Mexico. When I first arrived here I heard of shootings in towns nearby Monterrey, then in suburbs on the outskirts of the city, then in the ugly inner suburbs, and now in a so-called safe area, just minutes from where I live. Of course, I am now wondering how close will it actually get to me?

And last Sunday there were reports of a grenade attack in a public plaza. This is the first time that civilians have been targeted by drug cartels. This is not a good sign.

I'm not sure what to do next. My teacher warned everyone to stay inside last night, taught us techniques incase we do get caught in the middle of a shootout, and advised everyone that this weekend could get ugly. I'm not used to hearing these sentences, "if you find yourself in a shooting", "Don't go outside unless necessary", "never walk alone" but since I've been in Monterrey they've become almost as common as Que onda wey!

The University has called emergency safety meetings today and tomorrow and the international news has caught on, but all I'm worried about is my parents finding out and sending me home.
Because in the end, as dangerous as it may be, I'm not ready to leave. I still love Mexico and want to discover more.

I just wish it was a little more convenient to do so.

Read the articleshere:
http://www.google.com/hostednews/ap/article/ALeqM5gMi5B2USfJStXxfqgWWr2xjRYpOgD9IKFVIG1?docId=D9IKFVIG1
http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/programmes/world_news_america/8955232.stm

Colonial life in Zacatecas

In Mexico, the old colonial towns are some of the most beautiful you will see. I recently paid a visit to Zacatecas, a town set in a soft shade of pink.


The town is proud of it's mining history thus the Mina el Eden is a must see for visitors. Opened in 1586, it only closed down a couple of decades ago, and now serves a tourist destination and museum, and a nightclub!


The rock and gem display is exquisite, but the mine not so much. While our tour guide was knowledgeable, he sounded like he repeated the same tour 5 times a day, 365 days a year, and the same lame jokes. It does however give you an insight into mining life centuries ago when miners sons became slaves to the mine owner until they could repay their debts.




On the way out you should visit the plato store if you're in the market for some beautiful and cheap local silver.


Wander through the Unesco heritage listed town and now will feel as if you are wearing rose coloured glasses. Nearly every building is built from pink limestone of different shades and thus casts a soft and romatic mood over the entire town.



Cerro de la Bufa sits on the top of a hill looking obscure and ugly, however Zacatecans love their strange 'wineskin' looking rock formation. From this hill you can visit the musem of the taking of Zacatecas and hitch a ride on the cable car to the other side of the city. When I visited local women and children had camped on the roadside selling homemade jewellery from colourful beads.



I was also lucky enough to be visiting during La Morisma, a weekend long war re-enactment of the Spanish battle between the Christians and the Moors. The thousands of people who get involved REALLY get involved. Powder guns shoot non stop as men, and children, run around in complete costumes and all. It really was a sight to behold.
I had one question- why, in this country that tries to forget everything related to the Spanish conquest, so much so they believe their history starts in 1810, would they celebrate a Spanish event? The only answer I got was because there are still so many Spanish living here... Hmm?

A favorite local haunt is Cantina 15 letras, a cute little dive bar with cheap beers and even cheaper decor. Dance along to the cliche old men on the acordian singing terrible Spanish love songs ain the corner and you've got yourself a Mexican night out!

But my highlight of the trip was following the andanzas (local version of mariachi) through the cobbled streets, dancing, singing and drinking awful mezcal in tiny ceramic pots tied around our necks! The more you tip, the longer the night goes!