CUBA

CUBA

Too many clichés to describe this fascinating country. But the one I like the best, "You will fall in love with Cuba, wihtout understanding why".

It's confusing, outdated, interesting, closed, anti-capitalist, socialist, cheap, tourist-economy, loud, tasteless, daggy, sleazy and rhythmic.

My naivity before I arrived led me to believe the people would be depressed clones working a picket-line like slaves. Of course that was not like it was, nor should it be. I realised that although it is under a communist goverment, the majority of citizens still have some freedom to do as they please, especially those with money (the majority of their disposible income comes from family abroad or illegal dealings with tourists such as taxis or selling cigars).

I was travelling with a a group of 8 Australians, and with a the majority being blonde we attracted a lot of unwanted attention. Men whistled, blew kisses, called names, complemented us, followed us and continually asked us 'where are you from sexy girl?'...

We visited the towns of Havana, Trinidad, Camaguey, Santa Clara and Viñales.

La Havana is basically broken into three sections, the renovated, tourist-friendly Havana Vieja with the museums, restaurants and art galleries. Centro is the hustle and bustle of Havana, it's loud, busy and confronting. And Vedado is the rich area, full of beautiful old colonial houses, giant hotels that were used by the mafia and tree-lined boulevards.

Viñales is the tobacco-heart of Cuba, This is where the large cigar factories get their tobacco leaves from. In fact, the farmers are forced to give up 80-90% of their tobacco production to these government run factories, left with only a small amount to make their own organic cigars. We visited one farmer who showed us the natural process the use, then we tasted it. The honey, rum and cinnamon flavours combined with the strong tobacco and sent us all into a happy state.

Everyone knows that Cuban food is shit. I won't deny it. The 1 peso cheese pizzas, the dry and overcooked meat and the tinned spaghetti that seem to crop up on most menus certainly didn't stimulate the tastebuds, (especially after the wide variety of flavoursome Mexican dishes). However, we did discover two gems in Havana. A little authentic Chinese resturant called Tian Tan in China town served up delcious soups and noodle dishes. And Los Nardos opposite the Capitolio building was always packed thanks to its extensive menu, big servings and flavoursome Cuban fare. The pushy waiters were the only turn-off. Even the decor was rich and sensitive, as opposed to the usual plastic decor and bright lighting in the majority of government-run restaurants.

During the trip, my friends and I had the constant debate about Cubans, 'do they know what they're missing out on, or are they happy to live like this?' Of course while the government tries to limit outside influence, it is impossible to limit it all. With many Cubans living overseas, they bring foreign products, money and ideas with them when they return. Hollywood movies are shown regulary in Cuban cinemas. The internet is now available for some University students and more and more to those Cubans who have the resources to pay for it. Also the constant stream of interested tourists with comparatively full wallets must make the Cubans think twice about their rationed way-of-life. But on the other hand, they receive virtually free housing, health care and good education, some of the biggest worries and most sought after things in the capitalist economy. They have their own currency, worth a fraction of that of the toursist dollar, however the government subsidises everything from the baseball to phone lines.

One Cuban friend I spoke to wanted to know about travelling. The sensation of flying, exploring an unknown place, however his biggest worry was packing, 'How would I know what to take on holiday?'

He studies economy by day- learning about the capitalist system compared to his own socialism, and by night he tries to meet many tourists as he can (something illegal in itself without a licence) to find out about places he never thinks he will never see. A interesting contradiction.

That's how it is in Cuba.

Everyone says things are changing, slowly but surely. As more private business and foreign capital is welcomed into the economy, Cuba is slowly opening itself up to change. I left knowing I'll be back, but when, who knows.