I left Costa Rica via Ticabus, an overnight bus trip for about $50. Highly unsatisfied with the service, we left at 11pm, arrived at the frontera at 4:45. But the problem was that the immigration office didn't open until 6 theoretically, but 6:15am in reality.
We then spent over 4 hours at the border, waiting in line, waiting in more lines, and waiting for officials to do whatever they do. To cross the border you have to show evidence of a return ticket, which you can buy from the Tica agent for $35, but he promises you can get a refund at the office. Of course you can't, they just want your money! Many people I was travelling with managed to talk their way out of buying a ticket, maybe I was just the naive one..
Eventually we got to Panama City at almost 5pm, hot, sweaty and tired.
Panama City is a hidden gem of a city within the rest of a decaying, underdeveloped line of Central America capitals. The hype over Panama carnaval was slighty over-the-top in my eyes, sure there were parades, and there was music concerts and gospel music, but there was none of that Rio pazzazz, the boobs, bums and sequins you expect.
The more people I talk to about Panama, the more dissapointment I hear. 'Panamaniens are not lively, they give no love, they are hostile almost'. Not a great rep. And when I think about it myself, I can say that all the people I've met in Panama have not been Panamaniens. The Panamaniens aren't super friendly like their Central American counterparts, nor are they wild like their South American neighbours. Who knows why, possible due to their privedged past gaining continuous wealth from the Canal, or their recent American connection, but whatever the reason, Panama is lacking something.
The Canal was definitely the highlight. An incredible and mindblowing feat of human engineering, it is truly impressive. I was lucky to witness a giant freighter pass through when I was there, a surreal sight. The boat is lifted and dropped up to 26m above sea level by gravity, water and amazing engineering skills. These boats pay about $300,000 to pass through, and smaller yahcts around $1000. The least ever paid was 36c by Richard Haliburton in 1936 when he swam through the canal. And the best part- they have tp pay in cash 48 hours before. Bankrobbers, here's your treasure chest!
The canal will celebrate it's 100th birthday in 2014, when the new extension is set to be completed. It will be a huge celebration, bigger than Carnaval I imagine. Maybe then we'll see some real Panamenian wildness!
I'm now in Portobelo, a little fishing village near Colon on the Caribeean side. I've got a sailboat lined up to take me 5 days across the ocean to Cartagena, Colombia. Due to the fact that the overland passage between the two countries, Darien Gap, is said to be one of the most dangerous in the world, sailboat captains have tapped into this money making scheme to offer backpackers a trip of a lifetime throught the magestic San Blas Islands. The cost is about $400-$450, for 5 days sailing including food and immigration charges.
I am excited!
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