The well-trodden backpackers route from Guatemala border hopping through Central America and looping around South America is usually travelled entirely overland by bus, train or car. However the notorious border between Panama and Colombia known as the Darien Gap is one exception. Deemed too dangerous due to Colombian narco-trafickers using it as their playground, it is a no-go zone. Rare stories of brave idiots making it out the other side alive circulate hostel common rooms and severe warnings fill guide book pages to sufficiently scare most off.
So travellers continuing on from Central to South America have been forced off land and onto the sea. A strong market has been established by private sailboat owners who offer to charter travellers for about $400-$450 with food and immigration charges included. Many do it for the extra cash, however others simply want to share their love of sailing with those willing to learn. The passage takes about five days, from Portobelo in panama to Cartagena, Colombia. While it seems quite expensiveand for most people, works out to be better deal than the $300 flight from Panama City to Cartagena.
The types of boats, their size, captains and liveability all vary, but one thing doesn’t, they all pass through the tranquil San Blas archipelago. With enough islands to visit a new one each day of the year, the San Blas islands are a sailors paradise. The majority of the islands are only inhabited by dancing palm trees, fallen coconuts and sandy shores, however some are densely populated by the indigenous Kuna people. The Kuna are an autonomous group who successfully govern themselves with minimum interference from the national government. They are proud and passionate about their traditions, believing ‘the people who lose their culture lose their soul’. The Kuna women wear traditional woven skirts and embroided blouses and a mulititude of beaded bands around their arms and legs to guard off bad spirits. They are picturesque and naturally shy, begging to be captured however those that accept photos will then ask for one dollar compensation.
Most boats leave from the quiet fisherman’s village Portobelo, a three hour bus trip from Panama City, and five days later pull into the colonial town of Cartagena, Colombia. The first three days are spent exploring San Blas islands, where you can snorkel, swim and explore. The last two days are spent crossing the open sea, with a great record for turning sun-baked backpackers into bored and barfing sailors.
Just for the record, our boat made it five days without any vomitting incidents. Our captain was proud.
The captain takes your passport in Panama and returns it in Colombia, turning this border crossing into the slowest but most beautiful you will ever experience. You could sail on a million dollar catamaran or a five-person charming sailboat, your captain could be a nomadic German sailor or a family homeschooling around the world for years.
The easiest way to get details about boats leaving is from hostels in Panama City, but be aware of a $25 commission. A new site has just started http://sanblascartagena.com/ that promises to have all the details in one easy place with a no-commission for the traveller deal. However it's not quite up and running yet. Many boats also do the return journey, but the demand is a lot less. Summer is meant to be a smoother sail, but in winter you can get lucky with the weather. Just remember to stock up on seasickness tablets before you leave.
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