The Panama Canal

I left Costa Rica via Ticabus, an overnight bus trip for about $50. Highly unsatisfied with the service, we left at 11pm, arrived at the frontera at 4:45. But the problem was that the immigration office didn't open until 6 theoretically, but 6:15am in reality.
We then spent over 4 hours at the border, waiting in line, waiting in more lines, and waiting for officials to do whatever they do. To cross the border you have to show evidence of a return ticket, which you can buy from the Tica agent for $35, but he promises you can get a refund at the office. Of course you can't, they just want your money! Many people I was travelling with managed to talk their way out of buying a ticket, maybe I was just the naive one..

Eventually we got to Panama City at almost 5pm, hot, sweaty and tired.

Panama City is a hidden gem of a city within the rest of a decaying, underdeveloped line of Central America capitals. The hype over Panama carnaval was slighty over-the-top in my eyes, sure there were parades, and there was music concerts and gospel music, but there was none of that Rio pazzazz, the boobs, bums and sequins you expect.

The more people I talk to about Panama, the more dissapointment I hear. 'Panamaniens are not lively, they give no love, they are hostile almost'. Not a great rep. And when I think about it myself, I can say that all the people I've met in Panama have not been Panamaniens. The Panamaniens aren't super friendly like their Central American counterparts, nor are they wild like their South American neighbours. Who knows why, possible due to their privedged past gaining continuous wealth from the Canal, or their recent American connection, but whatever the reason, Panama is lacking something.

The Canal was definitely the highlight. An incredible and mindblowing feat of human engineering, it is truly impressive. I was lucky to witness a giant freighter pass through when I was there, a surreal sight. The boat is lifted and dropped up to 26m above sea level by gravity, water and amazing engineering skills. These boats pay about $300,000 to pass through, and smaller yahcts around $1000. The least ever paid was 36c by Richard Haliburton in 1936 when he swam through the canal. And the best part- they have tp pay in cash 48 hours before. Bankrobbers, here's your treasure chest!

The canal will celebrate it's 100th birthday in 2014, when the new extension is set to be completed. It will be a huge celebration, bigger than Carnaval I imagine. Maybe then we'll see some real Panamenian wildness!

I'm now in Portobelo, a little fishing village near Colon on the Caribeean side. I've got a sailboat lined up to take me 5 days across the ocean to Cartagena, Colombia. Due to the fact that the overland passage between the two countries, Darien Gap, is said to be one of the most dangerous in the world, sailboat captains have tapped into this money making scheme to offer backpackers a trip of a lifetime throught the magestic San Blas Islands. The cost is about $400-$450, for 5 days sailing including food and immigration charges.

I am excited!

Pura Vida

Some countries get it right. Oh so right. Latest example is Costa Rica.

The daily mantra is PURA VIDA. -PURE LIFE.

But it's not just some gimmicky tourism board catch phrase to appeal to mid-life-crisis tourists, it is how Tico's live their life.

They love the sun, the sea, nature and animals. They appreciate the little bit of paradise they happen to call home and want to approvechar.

Any Costa Rican town has only 4 essentials: a school, a soccer pitch, a church, and a bar. ANythiing else is a bonus.

The wealth of beauty here impels you to be happy, to go out there and see it, feel it, breathe it, live it. Tico's want to talk to you, want to make you feel welcome here. Not in a sleazy 'hey sexy girl' Cuban style, but in their 'Hola chica, pura vida' kinda way. It's infectious. After one week here, I'm hooked. I feel the warmth of the sand and the sea run through my sunkissed skin and into my personality.

In one short week we've been woken by monkeys playing in the hotel, saw a toucan fly across a volcanic landscape, rafted class IV- V rapids, loosened our muscles in natural hot springs, surfed, hiked, swam, ate, drank, and loved every minute.

Life is pure, live it purely!

Volcano hiking in Guatemala

The plan was to hike Santa Maria volcano in Xela at midnight under a full moon to get a glimpse down onto it's neighbour, the explosive Santiaguito volcano which is highly active. Sound too good to be true!?

It was. The night of our supposed hike, we found out it had been cancelled. Santiaguito was getting a bit too active making it too dangerous for even las chicas aventureras among us.

So we settled on the well-trodden path of Pacaya in Antigua. Less dangerous, less adventurous and less unique, but actually still a great experience.

The climb was meant to take 90 minutes, we powered up in 45. The higher you go, the thicker the fog encapsulting you in the forest, making it impossible to predict your position on the mountain. We only knew we´d made it to the top when we arrived at a flat peak, completely fogged over. 

We then crossed a thick, rocky path downwards to get to the ´Sauna´. The landscape its covered in lava produced in last eruption in May 2010, which saw ash float 5km high. It is a black apocalyptical setting, completely surreal and foreign, nothing living, nothing even dead. Just us crazy hikers, daring to walk through this hot crater. We felt like we´d laned on mars, or some black, cloudy version of it. The sauna is a cave like formation, heated by natural heat expelled from the volcano. It´s steamy, two minutes leaves you breathless. It was so hot in some parts we could even cook marshmallows off the rocks.

Xela, Guatemala

Sitting on the dusty steps outside an inconspicuous immigration office in no-mans land between Mexico and Guatemala for 6 hours is not how I imagined my first foray into Guatemala. If I'm honest I imagined something much more sinister, armed holdups, gang warfare or illegal immigrants smuggling themselves across the lengthy border.

But our hold up can be thanked to a simple economic problem of maize prices. Guatemalan farmers wanted the prices of imported Mexican maize to be lowered, so the most effective way to make the government listen is, in their opinion, by blocking the roads. The trucks stops, transport stops and bad press begins.

So we waited patiently until 6pm until the roads were opened, and made our way onward to Xela.

Quetzaltenango (or more simply Xela) has recently jumped on the relatively successful bandwagon of Spanish schools and now hosts over 20. I chose to study at El Nahual which runs the schools to help fund its volunteer project educating young children and adults who may not have access to public education.

So two weeks of 4 hour a day one-on-one Spanish lessons are now up. As are two weeks of living with a Guatemalan family and having breakfast, lunch and dinner ready and waiting for you each day and crazy afternoon with numerous under 10's who crave attention and lots of it.

I enjoyed my time here, but not sure if I would do it again. The teachers weren't the best, my first made me read a four-page article about the history of baby jesus figurines, while my second teacher taught me preterito, imperfect, futuro and condicional tenses in two days and expected me to remember them all!

I loved getting to know the kids, helping those who really wanted to learn, and sympathising with those who really struggle. In Guatemala if a child wasn't registered with the government when it was born (a surprisingly high occurance) then its a lengthy and costly process to get it into school later. A process most families can't/won't/don't do. So volunteer programs like El Nahual help to give these kids some level of education.

Our host family was comparably wealthy, the 11 year-old grandson had a laptop and plasma TV in his room, and they were in the process of adding a second story to their modest home. The food was homely and tasty. The grandmother ran the roost, along with her young Mayan maid. We ate porridge for breakfast, beans, meat and vegtables for lunch, and beans, tortillas and rice for dinner.

The long days wore me out so most nights I was sleeping before 10pm. We took a mother-daughter break with another mother and dughter duo from Belgium the middle weekend to the mesmerizing Lago de Atitlan. We stayed in the touristy Panajachel, and relaxed by the volcanous lakeside. The water was cool and refreshing. The sun was delciously soothing after the coolness of Xela. We ate well, drank well and laughed a lot.

Tomorrow I'm embarking on what I hope will be an incredible experience. I'll be hiking a live volcano, Santiaguito, at midnight, under a full moon. Can you get more magical than that.

Family holiday

Tomorrow my sister and my mum will arrive in Mexico City. I am very excited to see them, to teach them what I know and to explore with them. My sister is an experienced traveller, my mother not so. So I can expect some difficulties, stress and squabbles but most of all I expect it to bring us closer.

It's not until I realised they will be here soon that I allowed myself to realise how much I miss my family. We are close, but in a distant way. My sister and I are constantly travelling, and we haven't lived at home since we were both 18, so we are used to being apart. But at the same time we come from a kind and loving family that have always supported us. So it will be great to spend some quality time together in a new and unique environment.

We haven't been on a family holiday, the three of us, since...... I honestly can't remember. We've had weekends away with family, holidays individually or in pairs but never the three of us. So it will be great to experience a new country together.

We will all have a few days in Mexico City together before my sister goes to Cancun and will work her way through the Yucatan Peninsula by bus, while my mum and I will head to Quetznaltengo in Guatemala to volunteer in a school and learn some Spanish. Then we will all meet in Guatemala and head to Costa Rica for a relaxing week in the rainforest and the beach.

A perfect girls trip! I can't wait!

The underwater world

After Cuba I had some time to fill to await the arrival of my mum and sister so I decided to spent it underwater. That is, scuba diving.

I'd never dived before, but I'd heard only good things from friends so I decided to get my PADI open water dive certificate. I found a great company Scuba 10 in Playa del Carmen and signed up.

The most daunting thing about it is the gear. The more gear you put on, the more alien you look and feel. Big tanks on your back, hoses coming out everywhere and your whole body covered in a black wetsuit, it certainly isn't the most fashionable sport.

But once you're underwater everything changes. The first descent is incredible. as you reach the bottom and look up, it's like you really are in another world. The surface looks like the sky into another universe, and the bubbles that float from your tank slowly climb to the surface and pop away.

Over the course I did five dives, each one gaining more confidence, and spotting more things. (The first few dives you don't notice much of the amazing marine life because you are concentrating too hard on breathing, inflating, deflating, not drifting, following your instuctor and not hitting any precious coral. But after all thats ok, then you can enjoy it!)

We saw an octopus, a rare sight in the day time, and the way it changes from white to grey when it breathes. I spotted a giant lobster, a manta ray, a graceful turtle swimming all the way to the surface and back down, and a shark! It was only a nurse shark, but at the time I didn't know so I was certainly freaked when I saw it staring beadily out from a dark cave.

Being underwater is as unnatural for humans as trying to fly, so I felt priveledged to be able to interact and appreciate the diversity and beauty of the underwater world.

At least now I know once I've explored enough of the globe by land, there's a whole other world down there.

CUBA

CUBA

Too many clichés to describe this fascinating country. But the one I like the best, "You will fall in love with Cuba, wihtout understanding why".

It's confusing, outdated, interesting, closed, anti-capitalist, socialist, cheap, tourist-economy, loud, tasteless, daggy, sleazy and rhythmic.

My naivity before I arrived led me to believe the people would be depressed clones working a picket-line like slaves. Of course that was not like it was, nor should it be. I realised that although it is under a communist goverment, the majority of citizens still have some freedom to do as they please, especially those with money (the majority of their disposible income comes from family abroad or illegal dealings with tourists such as taxis or selling cigars).

I was travelling with a a group of 8 Australians, and with a the majority being blonde we attracted a lot of unwanted attention. Men whistled, blew kisses, called names, complemented us, followed us and continually asked us 'where are you from sexy girl?'...

We visited the towns of Havana, Trinidad, Camaguey, Santa Clara and Viñales.

La Havana is basically broken into three sections, the renovated, tourist-friendly Havana Vieja with the museums, restaurants and art galleries. Centro is the hustle and bustle of Havana, it's loud, busy and confronting. And Vedado is the rich area, full of beautiful old colonial houses, giant hotels that were used by the mafia and tree-lined boulevards.

Viñales is the tobacco-heart of Cuba, This is where the large cigar factories get their tobacco leaves from. In fact, the farmers are forced to give up 80-90% of their tobacco production to these government run factories, left with only a small amount to make their own organic cigars. We visited one farmer who showed us the natural process the use, then we tasted it. The honey, rum and cinnamon flavours combined with the strong tobacco and sent us all into a happy state.

Everyone knows that Cuban food is shit. I won't deny it. The 1 peso cheese pizzas, the dry and overcooked meat and the tinned spaghetti that seem to crop up on most menus certainly didn't stimulate the tastebuds, (especially after the wide variety of flavoursome Mexican dishes). However, we did discover two gems in Havana. A little authentic Chinese resturant called Tian Tan in China town served up delcious soups and noodle dishes. And Los Nardos opposite the Capitolio building was always packed thanks to its extensive menu, big servings and flavoursome Cuban fare. The pushy waiters were the only turn-off. Even the decor was rich and sensitive, as opposed to the usual plastic decor and bright lighting in the majority of government-run restaurants.

During the trip, my friends and I had the constant debate about Cubans, 'do they know what they're missing out on, or are they happy to live like this?' Of course while the government tries to limit outside influence, it is impossible to limit it all. With many Cubans living overseas, they bring foreign products, money and ideas with them when they return. Hollywood movies are shown regulary in Cuban cinemas. The internet is now available for some University students and more and more to those Cubans who have the resources to pay for it. Also the constant stream of interested tourists with comparatively full wallets must make the Cubans think twice about their rationed way-of-life. But on the other hand, they receive virtually free housing, health care and good education, some of the biggest worries and most sought after things in the capitalist economy. They have their own currency, worth a fraction of that of the toursist dollar, however the government subsidises everything from the baseball to phone lines.

One Cuban friend I spoke to wanted to know about travelling. The sensation of flying, exploring an unknown place, however his biggest worry was packing, 'How would I know what to take on holiday?'

He studies economy by day- learning about the capitalist system compared to his own socialism, and by night he tries to meet many tourists as he can (something illegal in itself without a licence) to find out about places he never thinks he will never see. A interesting contradiction.

That's how it is in Cuba.

Everyone says things are changing, slowly but surely. As more private business and foreign capital is welcomed into the economy, Cuba is slowly opening itself up to change. I left knowing I'll be back, but when, who knows.

Southern Mexico roadtrippin PT3

I woke up on Christmas Eve morning with a whopping hangover and a scattered memory. My friends dragged me out of bed to the ferry (not the best idea) to head across to Isla Mujeres. It wasn't till the afternoon I realised it was still in my dress from last night with terribly smudged makeup. All class!

My group of European friends celebrate Christmas Eve so we dined at a delicious courtyard restaurant on tuna steak, hors d'oeuvre, cheeses and Spanish wine. It was certainly different to the normal family BBQ but it was lovely all the same. After dinner, we handed out presents then went into the street and smashed a piñata! So much fun.

Christmas day was my turn for an Aussie chrissy, I taught everyone the apparently compex rules of beach cricket and a picnic on the beach.

We left in the afternoon to Valladolid where we sung karaoke, swam in caves and explored the cute town centre.

The next day we stopped at the disneyland of ruins, Chitzen Itza. It could have been nice if we could've seen past all the gringos swarming the place.

That night we made it to Merida and found a great hostel with a campsite and pool and breakfast and internet called Nomadas. We did salsa lessons, I explored the great central market and we ate at the famous local fare, pork, pork and more pork. I also stupidly, or bravely, depending on which way you look at it, ate a habanero chile. The hottest in Mexico! It put a dramatic end to my night as I retreated to the tent with a stomach ache, burning mouth and general lethargy. And I only took a nibble. I don't know how the Mexicans do it. They smother it over everything. I've even seen some eat it like an apple to wash down some tacos.

After the relaxing Merida, we took a long drive along th Ruta Puuc, visited some of the Mayan ruins along the way and made it back to Tulum by nightfall. We visited our favourtite campsite on the beach and pitched the tent in a great spot. Maybe not so great as all night we wondered when the howling wind would blow our tent over. Luckily it didn't, but safe to say we didn't choose the best campsite.

We spend the days lounging on the beach, playing a bit of beach cricket and eating delicious fresh seafood. We swam around a headland and visited the ruins of Tulum. Very impressive, except for the monton of tours buzzing about.

On the 30th of December we headed up to Playa del Carmen to get prepared for our big NYE celebrations. We met up with a group of three friends from France and two girls from Germany and their Colombian friend in the campsite Las Ruinas and caught up on each others latest travels.

The stage was set for a prefect NYE. A group of 15 friends. A beautiful beach. A party town. Plenty of alcohol. Great weather.

And it was, we partied all night long in Calle 12, dancing to live music overflowing from the crowded bars and eventually moved onto the beach for some skinnydipping to welcome in the new year.

A few more relaxing days at the beach, with the sun and sea nursing our hangovers and then that was it. The road trip was over. The equipo was separated. We said our goodbyes at Cancun airport on my way to Cuba. There were tears, hugs and laughs. I didn't realise how much I loved these guys, and how much I would miss their company.

Our roadtrip had been full of adventure, fun and misadventure. I will cherish these memories forver.

Southern Mexico roadtrippin PT2

We arrived in Pelanque to visit the beautiful ruins, set in the middle of the jungle, crawling vines over the 1500 year old ruins and green grass surrounding the site. Then that night we drove on to Bonampak.

We found a great camp site for 30 pesos each and had a relaxing night, falling asleep to the sound of waterfall in the background.

The next day I went to the remote ruins of Yaxchitlan. you need to get a lancha there as they are so remote, set right on the riverside of Mexico and Guatemala. The ruins are similar to that of Pelanque, set deep in the jungle, and very green and lush. Spider monkeys came out to play at the tree tops which was a great sight. We also spotted a crocodile sunning himself on the river bank on the way there.

On the way back we had a quick stop over in Guatemala, got some Guatemalan quetzals and bought some snacks. There was no immigration or border patrol so Im not sure how they monitor crossings. But the same day we found out a war broke out at another place on the border, lucky it wasn`t where we were.

The next day we stopped in a tiny town to visit a family who own a bakery and they offered us cake, bread rolls, oranges and had their son take photos of us all. By now we`re quite used to people wanting to take photos of us, I guess its the blonde hair.. But they were a sweet family and when I showed them vegemite they thought it was hilarious. But the best was when I told them I gave them a postcard from Wagga Wagga- they didn`t even want to try to pronounce it!!

That night we slept in Chetumal, an uneventful night and unremarkable town.

The next day we jumped back in the kangoo and climbed up to Tulum, we spent the afternoon at th beach there then pitched out tent in a campsite on the beach for 80 pesos each.

We had a delicious seafood dinner in town then relaxed on the beach.

The next morning we had some more beach time, did some shopping then went to visit the ruins of Tulum but unfortunately then were closed already, so well have to return- What a shame!!

Then we made it to Cancun- finally! we'd all had enough of the car, as cool as it is, and were happy to have a few days break. Alvaro's parents and sister flew in that night and we greeted them at the airport, we knew immediately that it will great spending the next week with them- a great family!!

The next day we showed them the beautiful Caribeean beached, white sand and clear blue water. Palapa huts on the beach, and cervezas for lunch. Can't get much better. We had lunch at Hooters, an interesting experience. Average food, but everyone knows you don't go to Hooters for the food.

Then we had a big night, everyone had told us about the experience that is CocoBongo, and its true that you need to see it to believe it. A disco that costs $45 US to get in, open bar all night and impersonator shows all night, certainly worth it!!

They started with Frank Sinatra, moved onto Lady Gaga and Madonna and threw in Spiderman and Batman fight seen, I loved it. (Well the parts that i remember.... Lets not mention that...)

Southern Mexico roadtrippin PT1

One week down in a month long road trip through the south of Mexico... So far, so good!

I'm travelling with a group of friends, Ines, the eternally happy Parisian, Raphael, the Provencal French rugby man, Alvaro, the crazy Spaniard and Miguel, the balance between everyone- calm and studious.

We rented a kangoo, a ridiculous French van, piled our backpacks, tent and reserve in the back and set off from Mexico City.
The first encounter was the Guadalupeans, as we´ve affectionally named them. These Guadalupeans embark on a pilgrimage to the Basilica of Guadalupe in Mexico City around the 12 of December from all parts of Mexico. They travel in big trucks and each person takes a turn carrying the torch along the highway all the way to Mexico City and back. and there were thousands of groups of them!

Mexico is a country of extremes, from the rich, US-styled Monterrey we arrived in the poor colonial town of Oaxaca. We slept in a freezing campsite and vistied the beautiful colourful Zocalo. The Mayan ruins of Monte Alban were impressive, as was the fiesta offering all sorts of Oaxacan delicacies such as banana tamales, balls of Oaxaca cheese and tarts. Delicious.

Next stop was Mazunte, a chilled out beach village. We got there very late so that only place we found to pitch the tent was in a the driveway of a lovely but crazy family. With hundreds of roosters going all night long!! Safe to say we didn't get much sleep that night. The next day we found a slightly more legit campsite called La Isla for 40 pesos each, set only 10 metres from the beach. We spent the day in the waves and the afternoon in the bar.

We changed it up a bit the next day and camped at Zipolite, an even more hippy relaxed campsite set on the beach. We spent a relaxing afternoon at the beach and the night in the bar. What a tough life!

We drove the next afternoon until dark and camped in the carpark of a roadside hotel for 100pesos in total. No the most comfortable night, but we were used to it.

We drove the next morning until San Cristobal de las Casas, and arrived in the freezing cold. After months in the steaming heat of Mexico we were in for a bit of a shock when night fell and the temperature dropped to freezing.

San Cristobal is a picturesque village, large but not overwhelming. It's surrounded by many tiny indigenous villages, thus you can buy local indigenous crafts and clothing everywhere and the local market is one of the most interesting in Mexico. The indigenous women and children still wear traditional clothing, very bright and colourful that begs to be photographed but they are very camera shy so its not welcomed. Ines tried to photograph one woman in the market and got a banana peel thrown her way.

We visited a Zapatista village (who demand democracy for all!) where we had to gain permission to enter, the village of Chamula with an odd church with pine needles on the floor and offerings of soda, eggs and chickens. Very eerie but incredible. We were swarmed by local children asking for money, food anything really, and Raph bought some fireworks which they seemed very pleased with. It was gorgeous!

After San Cristobal we returned to the heat of Pelanque.